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New Spring Garden Collection

At-A-Glance:

  • Hardy Zones: 3-9
  • Spacing: varies by flower
  • Height: 6-26"
  • Ships As: package of bulbs
  • Full Sun Full Sun
  • Partial Shade Partial Shade
  • Shade Shade
  • Good for cutting Good for cutting
  • Deer resistant Deer resistant
  • Fragrant Fragrant

New Spring Garden Collection

Deluxe Tulips Mixture

Tulipa hybrids

About:

Tulips are in the Lily family and are native to eastern Europe and central and western Asia. They are one of the oldest plants in cultivation, with thousands of varieties developed over the years. They were introduced into Europe in 1554, where their popularity peaked with Tulipomania in the early 1600s. The craze has subsided, but the tulip’s popularity remains, with a multitude of forms and colors to choose from. Our Deluxe Tulip Mixture will provide long-lasting blooms in shades of yellow, pink, red and orange.

Planting:

Plant tulip bulbs with the pointed end up, roughly three times their height deep and three times their width apart. If in doubt, plant a little deeper, which allows for longer lasting bulbs and less chance of predation by ground digging rodents. An ideal location is one that receives morning sun and some afternoon shade. Plant in groups of at least five bulbs for best effect. Fertilize after planting with a well-balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Tulips are heavy feeders and will benefit from the nutrients slowly working their way down through the soil over the next several months. Water well and apply a two-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and keep the soil cool.

Maintenance

Make sure the plants receive enough water in the spring, when they are pushing up through the ground. Half an inch of rain or water is needed each week to ensure the bulbs flower to their full potential. Deadhead spent blooms to divert more energy back to the bulbs. Tulip bulbs are drought tolerant after the foliage begins to die back. Do not cut back foliage after blooming. The bulbs need it to replenish their energy supply for next year’s blooms. Plant among other bulbs and perennials to conceal the unattractive foliage after blooming. The foliage may be cut back when it yellows. Fertilize again in the fall.

Tulips generally put on their best show the first spring then start to lose vigor, the flowers becoming smaller and fewer in numbers each year. Some people treat tulips as annuals and plant fresh bulbs each autumn. Some bulbs, known as perennial tulips, tend to last longer, sometimes up to 5-7 years.

A Note For Our Southern Friends:

Tulips require a period of chilling. If you do not receive at least eight consecutive weeks of temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter, you will need to give your bulbs an artificial winter. This affects people living in zones 9 and 10, and parts of zone 8. Chill tulip bulbs in your refrigerator for eight weeks in a vented bag. Keep away from fruit, as the ethylene gas given off by the ripening process can kill the developing flower embryos. Plant immediately after the chilling process, ideally in an area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. Bulbs treated in this manner cannot be easily saved for the next year and should be treated as annuals.

Tall Dutch Irises Mixture

Iris hollandica

About:

Iris belong to their own family, Iridaceae, and are native to temperate regions of the northern hemisphere. There are more than 200 species, with great variation in growth habit, flower form and color. Dutch Iris grow from bulbs, and are hybrids of species from Spain and Morocco. Our Tall Dutch Iris Mix is a color-balanced mixture of white, yellow, purple and bronze flowering plants.

Planting:

Choose a well-draining area that gets full sun to part shade. Plant bulbs pointed end up, 4” deep and 3-4” apart. Water well. Mulch heavily in areas with cold winters, to provide protection from the freezing and thawing cycles.

Maintenance:

Provide moisture during the spring growing season. Dutch iris will go dormant after blooming. As with other spring- and summer-blooming bulbs, let the foliage die back on its own, allowing the plants to create energy for next year’s blooms. Planting among perennials will help hide the yellowing leaves.

Blue Grape Hyacinths

Muscari armeniacum

About:

Grape hyacinths are not true hyacinths, although they are closely related and are also in the Lily family, Liliaceae. There are about 30 species, native to the Mediterranean region and western Asia. They have strap-like foliage and grape-like clusters of flowers in shades of blue, violet and white. The Blue Grape Hyacinth, M. armeniacum, has flowers of violet blue that produce a sweet scent.

Planting:

Plant bulbs pointed end up, 3-4” deep and 2” apart in rich, well-draining soil. Although they will grow in shade, they prefer areas with full sun or partial shade. As this is a low-growing plant, set bulbs in large groupings for best effect. Water well.

Maintenance:

Provide moisture during the spring growing season. As with other spring- and summer-blooming bulbs, let the foliage die back on its own, allowing the plants to create energy for next year’s blooms. Foliage should yellow and die back by midsummer. The bulbs often send up another set up of leaves in the autumn. If conditions are right, your Muscari may ‘naturalize,’ or multiply and spread. If bulbs get too crowded, the best time to dig and divide them is in midsummer, after the leaves have yellowed, but are still visible.

Tête-à-Tête Daffodils

Narcisuss 'Tête-à-Tête'

About:

Daffodils, or Narcissus, are in the Amaryllis family and are native to Europe, North Africa and Asia. They are easy to grow and thousands of varieties have been cultivated over the years. Our Tête-àTête Daffodils will send up small, butter-yellow blooms in early spring.

Note: do not mix daffodils with other flowers in bouquets, as the sap will cause other flowers to wilt.

Planting:

Plant 6” deep and 6” apart with the narrow “necks” pointing up. Daffodils are tolerant of most soils with good drainage, but do best in deep, rich soil with plenty of organic matter. Plant in an area that gets full to part sun.

Maintenance:

Feed annually in the spring with a bulb fertilizer. Water as needed and do not allow the soil to dry out during the spring. Daffodil bulbs are drought tolerant after the foliage begins to die back. Do not cut back foliage after blooming. The bulbs need it to replenish their energy supply for next year’s blooms. Plant among other bulbs and perennials to conceal the unattractive foliage after blooming. The foliage may be cut back when it yellows. If conditions are favorable, daffodil bulbs will naturalize over the years, multiplying and spreading. If they become too dense, they will not flower as readily. It is best to divide crowded bulbs in midsummer, just after the foliage has died back. Dig up the bulbs, separate the offshoots and replant, following the planting instructions above.

A Note For Our Southern Friends:

Most daffodils require a period of chilling to begin growth of the flower bud within the bulbs. If you do not receive at least eight consecutive weeks of temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter, you will need to give your bulbs an artificial winter. This affects people living in zones 9 and 10, and parts of zone 8. Chill daffodil bulbs in your refrigerator for eight to twelve weeks in a vented bag. Keep away from fruit, as the ethylene gas given off by the ripening process can kill the developing flower embryos. Plant immediately after the chilling process, ideally in an area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. Bulbs treated in this manner cannot be easily saved for the next year and should be treated as annuals.

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